The Fashion Industry and Rivers - Die or Dye?

When you shop for clothes, do you aim to buy clothes that are exactly the same shade as everyone else's? Chances are the answer is a 'no'. You probably look for something that is as distinct as you. Something that reflects your own personality. In fact, much of the luxury segment exists simply because of this desire for uniqueness and individuality. Yet, you'd be surprised at how decisions are made behind the scene that result in massive waste of water and energy. In my previous blog post, we saw how the notion of 'ONLY black is beautiful' was causing 20 ebony trees to be cut down in order to find that one perfectly black specimen, leaving behind incalculable destruction in its wake. In this post, I'd like to highlight something similar that happens with water in the textile and apparel industry. Did you know that  every two years the clothing industry uses water equivalent to that of the Mediterranean Sea to dye clothing? 

Image Source:  http://www.adidas.com/com/goallin/news/2012/08/adidas-drydye/

Dyeing clothing has always been a water intensive process but when the fabric is meant for the US and EU markets, nearly 4-6 times more water and energy is consumed compared to fabrics aimed at other markets because 'US and EU buyers demand exact color-matching, requiring more frequent re-dyeing'. Who decided that all shirts should be the exact same shade? Doesn't common sense about consumer psychology point otherwise? Most industrial processing takes place in developing countries where environmental safeguards are low. The next time you shop at a Zara or a Primark or wherever, take the time to look at the labels and you'd find that they've been manufactured in China, India, Bangladesh, Morocco etc. The reality in many of those places is that they can indeed tell the colour of fashion for the next season by looking at the colour of their rivers, that is if the rivers survive. 

Source:  http://www.tehelka.com/story_main53.asp?filename=Ne010912KILLING.asp 

Fortunately, when brands become big, they also have to worry about their image in the consumer mind and many leading brands are also taking the initiative not just to clean up their act but to actually fuel innovation. Take for instance, Nike which has adopted waterless textile dying process designed by Dye Coo.or Adidas which has also done the same with DryDye technology that does not use a single drop of water and also uses   50% less energy and 50% less chemicals. Levi Strauss & Co. best known for its Levi’s jeans goes so far as to recommend that you don't wash your jeans. I have now discovered new-found respect for someone who once told me he washed his jeans only once a year. Turns out he is a true-blue denim aficionado. But I must confess I still don't have the stomach to wash my denims only once or twice a year! Many companies have also joined the coalition to promote zero discharge of hazardous chemicals. WRAP in the UK provides manufacturers with a good practice guide to manage water and chemical use in the textile dyeing and finishing industry.

While we know there are miles to go, it helps to know every little bit that is being done to protect this precious blue planet. I'll leave you with this very interesting short video about how the apparel industry and fashion brands are cutting back on their “water weight”. If you have the time/inclination, I'd also recommend this entertaining super short video also by Summer Rayne Oakes. Until the next time...

PS - I've been chosen to participate in the Summer School at Rome between the 24th - 28th of September. The STREAM summer school  aims to promote exchange of knowledge and the awareness on EU water research and state of the art technology among researchers from universities, research institutes and SMEs. So excited about the opportunity to network with water professionals and also looking forward to return to the Eternal City. Those cents I dropped in the Trevi fountain many years ago finally did work their charm after all!  Stay with me and I'll share my experience of the experience...:)